The resort sits on its own at the southern tip of the island, about 30 minutes by road from the airport and 15 past the town of Kuah. Rides can be hard to find on Langkawi, so plan on a car for evenings out, such as the night market seven minutes away.
The building is a six-storey mansion with wings reaching towards the shore, built around large courtyards with Islamic arches and mashrabiya screens. The lobby, on the third floor, is ivory marble, rich timber and metal, and the champagne sabering takes place outside it every evening.
We stayed in a St. Regis Pool Suite on the ground floor, in soft blues, greys and emerald, with hand-carved rugs in the island’s traditional style. The bathroom had a deep soaking tub and a walk-in shower, and the terrace held a very large plunge pool, a daybed and a gate straight onto the beach.
The butlers bring coffee and tea, cappuccinos included, at any hour.
Breakfast at L’Orangerie is a wide buffet of Western, Chinese, Malaysian and Indian dishes, with sushi and a nasi lemak station we kept returning to. The menu runs from river lobster omelette to wonton noodles.
At sunset we took drinks on the deck at Kayuputi, the over-water restaurant, and the hammocks facing the horizon are worth arriving early for. Pantai Grill, on the beach, cooks seafood and steaks over a wood fire, and its pizza made a good lunch.
The main pool is a cascade of infinity pools, with an island of loungers you reach by swimming, above 600 metres of quiet white sand. There are kayaks for the lagoon, a gym open around the clock and a spa.
Two nights were a perfect pause after busy days in the cities, and we could happily have stayed longer. For variety, split your time with a resort on another side of the island.