The hotel fills the Nation Towers on Corniche Road, joined to the Nation Galleria mall below. Qasr Al Watan is about five minutes by car, Emirates Palace and Al Bateen about ten, and the airport about 30.
The lobby is grand, all marble and tall pillars under a bespoke chandelier, with a staircase sweeping up to the Crystal Lounge. At check-in we met our butler, who was on call day and night and brought French-press coffee to the room at six in the morning.
We stayed in a suite on the top floor, one of the largest in the hotel, with marble throughout, a dining table for ten and views of the Gulf on two sides. Even the entry rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows over the city or the sea.
Breakfast at The Terrace on the Corniche is a vast buffet of Western and local dishes, with tables outside looking over the water. Up the grand staircase, the Crystal Lounge serves afternoon tea and hosts the evening sabering of Champagne.
A tunnel under the road leads to the Nation Riviera Beach Club, with a temperature-controlled infinity pool, a swim-up bar and 200 metres of private white-sand beach. We spent a whole afternoon there.