The hotel faces north over the harbour, beside Harpa. Hallgrímskirkja, Laugavegur and the rest of the old centre are 15 to 20 minutes away on foot, and the road out to the countryside is close by.
We stayed in three rooms over two visits, and the Ocean View Corner Suite was the highlight. It has a dining table for ten, a living room of sofas and fur rugs, two king bedrooms and windows onto the harbour and the open ocean.
In July the midnight sun meant it never really got dark, and we kept the windows open to the harbour. The rooms are Nordic and warm, with wool throws, fur-draped chairs and very comfortable beds.
The ROOF, on the seventh floor, has outdoor seats with views of the mountains and the ocean, and its bartender makes an excellent Old Fashioned. Downstairs, the Lobby Bar has an open fire, and Tides cooks modern Icelandic food from breakfast to dinner.
The spa was a highlight too, with a hot tub, a steam room, a sauna and a cold shower between the heat, and tea and snacks in its lounge.