You arrive through Balinese temple gates at the wantilan, a village pavilion that looks over the whole resort, and are welcomed with an herbal drink and a cold towel. Our butler then showed us around by buggy, and check-in happened in our suite, where our bags were already waiting in the closet.
The resort keeps to the rainforest, rice paddies and river it was built on, and local families still bring offerings to the village temple on its grounds. Stone, water and wood are everywhere, and the suites and villas are spread out for privacy.
Our Reserve Suite was vast, with high wicker ceilings, travertine floors and a balcony off both the living room and the bedroom. The bathroom’s centrepiece is a deep tub for two, and a basket of local fruit was refilled every day.
Breakfast at Sawah Terrace, looking over the rice terraces, is a lavish spread with Balinese pancakes, noodles and congee made to order. Dinner at Kubu is a set menu in bamboo huts on the riverbank, and Ambar, high on the cliff, is the place for sunset.
At Mandapa Spa, our massage was on a deck above the river, to the sound of the water. Afterwards there is a relaxation room facing the Ayung, a steam room, a sauna and a warm vitality pool that looks into the rainforest.
The two pools look over the rice paddies, and staff come round with fresh fruit, coconuts and sunscreen. Each day brings morning yoga, rice pounding in the fields and a sambal cooking class, and every guest is offered a session with the resort’s photographer.
Our butler answered on WhatsApp at any hour, booked our dinners, activities and rides into town, and saw us off with a small parting gift. When an early tour cut into breakfast, the restaurant’s manager simply told us to come back and finish afterwards.