The hotel was designed by Jean-Michel Gathy, and it shows wherever you look. Its rooms step down toward the river around courtyards of lotus ponds and a palm court of still reflecting pools, and art fills the lobby, the corridors and a gallery of its own.
The hotel’s own boat makes the river the easy way in and out. It runs to Sathorn Pier, a short ride away and steps from the Skytrain, and some sailings carry on to Icon Siam.
Check-in was done seated in the lounge, over a welcome iced tea. Our Deluxe River-View Room looked straight out at the Chao Phraya, and a chaise by the window became our favourite seat for watching the barges and long-tail boats go by.
The bed was one of the most comfortable we’ve slept in, and the bathroom had an oval tub against black marble. A mango and coconut treat and a handwritten note were waiting when we arrived.
Lunch at Yu Ting Yuan, the Cantonese restaurant, was a highlight, above all the steamed crab claw dumpling. Breakfast at Riva del Fiume was one of the best spreads we’ve seen, with a wood-fired oven, a bakery corner and a full Thai and Chinese line-up.
On our last morning, the breakfast team sent out a fruit plate wishing us a safe flight, with a hand-drawn elephant. Small touches like that are what we remember.
The main pool steps down toward the river to an infinity edge, and swimmers have a quiet lap pool beside the gym. We also joined one of the hotel’s daily Thai cultural classes, threading jasmine and roses into a garland.